Monday, April 23, 2012

Part 23: Spring Break Episode 1: Don’t Move. April 2-8, 2012

The week before Spring Break is horrible.  It’s the end of the quarter and all the teachers here get to enter our grades and comments for each student by hand.  Individually.  Using copy/paste.  However, it is slightly more bearable with the knowledge that for the next 10 days you won’t have to go to work!  Also, two of my friends (from here on out known as Q and T) were coming from the US to experience Bulgaria and the surrounding countries. 


Q arrived on the Tuesday of grading hell week.  Luckily he slept most of the first day he was here, but then he just sort of had to amuse himself until I finished all 137 report cards.  He did get really good at going to the grocery store, but wouldn’t venture farther than that due to his fear of being mugged, in spite of the fact that I kept telling him that it was really safe.  Oh well.  He did make my roommate and me fajitas for dinner one evening, biscuits for breakfast one morning and he managed to find a 50 stotinki razor for the trip (that’s quality), so his trips to HIT were productive even if they were a little repetitive.  I also managed to pawn him off on my friend A, the college counselor, and her friends for an evening so he didn’t have to sit at home.  They did the Sofia walking tour, which I hear is quite good. 

On Friday, my friend T arrived!  I was really excited and I was glad Q was already there and could go pick her up from the airport.  I made sure to provide detailed instructions on how to find the proper and legit OK taxi.  Unfortunately, this didn’t make much of a difference and the (not so) OK taxi driver still tried to rip them off.  Luckily, I’d told Q how much is should cost and he was sooo mad.  Apparently, when the taxi driver tried to ask for 20 lev, he said, “NO!  Seven!”  Luckily it worked and they weren’t overcharged. 

That night we went downtown to a mall I’ve never been to before so my roommate could get a new power cord for her computer.  We then walked around and took in the sights before going to the Taj Mahal Indian restaurant.  We tried to get Thai food, but Sofia only has one Thai restaurant and it was full.

 The next day, we took forever to leave, but eventually made it to the bus station to catch a bus to Plovdiv.  We did the typical Plovdiv sights:  the Roman Ampitheatre, Nebet Tepe (the Thracian fortress) and the Church of St. Constantine and St. Helena.  If you want the historical info on these sights, check out my more detailed Plovdiv entry:  http://bulgariabiologyandotherbrasstacks.blogspot.com/2011/08/part-5-plovdiv-august-29-2011.html   


It was such a nice day in Plovdiv.  The sun was shining and it was really warm.  We started out our journey from the bus station to the train station where a man showed us where the luggage storage room was and then demanded 1 lev for a cup of coffee.  Then we tried to find out how to buy train tickets to Istanbul.  We found plenty of evidence of there being a train, but the first ticket lady said no (and of course I don’t speak enough Bulgarian to really get any details) and the information desk lady could only tell us what time it arrived.  So, using my Bulgaria guidebook (thank you SME science teachers!) we found the ticket office for international trains and this lady hooked us up.  She also had great music playing.   By now it was almost 3 o’clock and we were hungry, so we went to a Chinese restaurant.  The dish I wanted was 7 leva.  None of us paid any attention to the size of the meal and our waitress didn’t point it out either so we ended up with 2 lbs of food a piece.  Yep.  2 lbs.  Of course we couldn’t finish it, so we took it to go.  We put the Styrofoam containers into plastic bags and T carried them in her back pack all day. 

We then headed into the main part of the old town.  It is a beautiful city.  We headed down the pedestrian walkways and made our way up to the amphitheatre.  The sun was streaming down in beams and it was really nice.  We then walked past some traditional houses and even stopped briefly at one of the house museums before heading up to Nebet Tepe (the Thracian ruins on the hill).  Once again, it was all lovely.  We headed back down, passing the mosque and the Roman forum.  We had scoped out the ice cream on our way up and we knew exactly what we wanted.  We sat in a giant city park and ate our ice cream and refilled our water from one of Bulgaria’s numerous springs.  We then headed back to the train station.  On the way, Q sweet-talked some ladies (who seemed to be about ready to pinch his cheeks) for some forks so we could finish our left-overs (still in T’s bag) on the train that night. 

So, we waited in the train station.  I paid 1 lev to use the bathroom (that one lev even bought me about 6 sheets of toilet paper) and brushed my teeth.  Then, about a half hour before the train was supposed to arrive, we moved to Platform 4 (by the way, none of the platforms in Plovdiv are labeled).  And we waited.  We waited half an hour.  Then another half hour.  Then another half hour.  That’s right, the train to Istanbul was an hour late.  We were starting to worry as other trains had flowed in and out of the station, but the Istanbul train finally arrived. 

We boarded the train and found some seats (though, in hindsight, we are pretty sure we were supposed to get a place to sleep) and started our journey.   The train was flying down the tracks and we were tired, but it was still hard to sleep.  Sometime around midnight we finished our Chinese food.  Then, it started to get cold. 

Eventually, we got to some little town (Dimitrovgrad or something “grad”) and we stopped.  For a long time.  Then we started going backwards, which made us worry a little bit.  Then we went forwards again.  Eventually we made it to Svilengrad, the border. 

We asked the conductor what we should do and he told us to stay where we were.  Then, five minutes later he was standing outside with a flashlight, intensely signaling for us to move to the next car.  So, there we were, crammed into the narrow aisle with T’s giant suitcase as the large and impressive-looking Turkish border patrol man made his way towards us.  He took our passports, told us “don’t move,” and left the train (which, by the way, was parked between two razor-wire fences.  The airport is much less intimidating).   Then we were told by a man wearing cut-off jean shorts and looking to have no authority what-so-ever to move into a compartment of the train, which we were reluctant to do having just been told by giant-scary-border-guard to “not move.”  But we did.  We met a girl from France and a girl from Germany, who also had no idea what was going on.  Soon, we got our passports back and started to move again.  Eventually we were let off to buy our visas into Turkey. 

As we were standing in line, the guy behind us asks, “Where are you from.”  T answers, “The US.”  I then mention that the guy is American and wants to know which state.  T laughs and comments on his excellent English.  Turns out, J is studying abroad in England and decided to take on Eastern Europe during his break.  He was traveling alone, since all of his friends believe it is unsafe.  Anyway, he only had pounds that were printed in Scotland and N. Ireland, which apparently appear quite suspicious, in spite of being perfectly legitimate money.  Anyway, we stuck around to make sure he would not be stranded at the border.  The visa man took his money and after intense inspection, gave him a visa.  We then moved through the passport line and on to the holding tank (“luggage inspection”) before getting on the bus. 

We then saw the visa man, holding J’s money, coming towards us again.  He then began questioning, not only J, but the rest of us as well about its authenticity.  When Q finally took out $20 and offered to exchange it, the visa man seemed to believe that it was real money.  We then boarded the bus with our new friend J (it is now about 2 am) and set off down the road to Istanbul. 
To Be Continued.....