The next day began with Topkapi Palace. Home to the sultans from 1465-1856, this huge compound takes at least four hours to get through, and that is if you are in a hurry. After entering, we started out with a tour of the harem. Although it costs you an extra 10 lira (or $5), it is worth it. This is the sultan and his family’s private residence. No one else, but the eunuchs who guarded it, were ever allowed in. It is covered in painted Iznik tiles and the many of the rooms have their own domes. There were rooms for the sultan and his mother (sultan’s mothers played a huge role in government) as well as smaller apartments for the sultan’s wives and children.
 |
| dome in sultan's chambers |
 |
| Entrance to Harem |
The harem is inside the 3rd gate. The four gates go up in privacy. The fourth gate is open only to members of the sultan’s family, much like the harem. The first gate was open to almost anyone needing to conduct business with the government. Inside the courtyard behind the second gate the sultan would take care of justice and hold audiences. This is also where the kitchens and imperial council chambers were found. Behind the 3rd gate, is the Audience Chamber. The sultan would sit here to receive foreign ambassadors and the like, but it was arranged so as to block the view of most of the rest of the 3rd courtyard. The 3rd courtyard was were the sultan spent his time when not inside the harem. Also inside the 3rd gate are the imperial treasury and the library.
 |
| Library |
Topkapi also houses important religious relics of the Muslim world. For example, I saw Moses’ staff and Mohamed’s cloak and beard. As with all religious relics from any religion, I’m a little skeptical. But, now I can add these to my list along with John the Baptist’s finger, which I’ve seen several times at the Nelson Atkins Museum in Kansas City (located after the suits of armor and before the mummy, if you are interested).
After we had a late lunch at a rooftop café with a great view of the Blue Mosque, we headed to the Galata district, where one of my travel companion’s friends from her old school in Dubai now lives. We met up with him and he took us to his apartment. The most amazing apartment. It has hardwood floors, exposed brick ceilings and a mosque minaret 10 feet out the bedroom window (you can’t win them all). He was really good natured about being woken up by the call to prayer everyday at 5:30 am. His reaction, “GOOD MORNING, ALLAH!!.” I suppose you’d get used to it. The roof of his building has the same views as the Galata tower, including, the Galata Tower. The Galata Tower was built in 1348 as a fortification for defense. You could also see the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. That rooftop was amazing.
 |
| Galatta Tower |
 |
| Topkapi Palac overlooking the Golden Horn |
We then went out for Thai food (first actually spicy food I’ve had since moving) and then went to a rooftop bar in Taksim square. I’ve never seen more people out in one place in my entire life. (Also, I’m not sure I want to again). Thousands of people were milling around the roads here. It was a bit claustrophobic, but fun.
The next day went to the Grand Bazaar. It was an experience. I can’t outline what I bought here, because much of it will be shipped home for Christmas presents, but we all bought something. The lines you hear at the Bazaar are entertaining as well. One of my travel buddies even got a marriage proposal. I don’t know what it is about me, perhaps my youthful appearance, but I got very few lines coming my way, whereas my two friends had to deal with them basically from the time we got left the airport until we got back to the airport. You just have to laugh, and move on. We got some lunch and then took the fairy over to the Asian side. I mostly just took pictures along the Bophorus, but it was nice. Plus it only cost an extra $2 and I have now been to Asia.
 |
| Grand Bazaar |
 |
| Asian Side |
That night at dinner, one of my friends managed to “out Turkish” our waiter. He had no idea what to think of this girl. He spent a large portion of the evening bent over from laughing. That night we went back to Mahmet’s shop. We had been there twice before and this was our last chance. By this trip, he officially knew we were crazy, but I don’t think he cared since we bought a lot from him. We kept coming back because he was very honest and nice and not full of horrible pick up lines. If you are going to Istanbul, buy from Mahamet. I can provide the address on request.
On our last day, 2 of us decided to go to Dolmabahçe Palace. It was built right on the Bosphorus in 1856 to replace Topkapi Palace with a more European style royal residence. After standing in incredibly long lines and being cut in front of repeatedly (a line is truly a cultural thing, although knowing that does not make it less annoying), we got in. It was very grand. The chandeliers (the largest of which is 4 tons) came from England and France. There was also a Steinway piano and two bear skin rugs that were gifts from foreign rulers. It was the most over the top and grand thing I’ve ever seen (Buckingham Palace included). Unfortunately, pictures are not allowed inside, but google image it, and you’ll see what I mean. It retained some traditional Ottoman elements as well, such as the Harem for the family. This is also were Ataturk, the man who led the revolution and became the Republic’s first president died. He was a very interesting man, but I doubt you want to read an essay on him, so I’ll leave the research up to you.
 |
| Gates over looking the Bosphorus |
 |
| Dolmabache Palace (a side view) |
After Dolmabahche, we jumped in a taxi back to our hotel, picked up our friend, and headed to the airport. I would gladly go back to Istanbul. It was a great trip.
