Part 61: Barcelona!! Jan 2-4, 2013

Day 1:  Old Barcelona (mostly)

I got off the night train looking just lovely and dropped my bag off at my hostel (which did not have free luggage storage.  Apparently I did not pay close enough attention when I booked it).  I got there just in time for the free walking tour.  We headed to the entrance to the old town and took a moment to look at the ugly Barcelona College of Architects building.  It was built while Spain was under dictator Franco’s control and he apparently wanted Picasso to decorate the building.  However, Picasso was less than thrilled and ended up transferring a doodle he done on a napkin onto the building. 

We passed through the gate and into the medieval city walls, which are still visible in some places. From there we wandered our way through the old town.  First we stopped near a school in a small courtyard.  The school front was very damaged from the Spanish Civil War and apparently when the students are outside, they try to hit tourists with soccer balls (more points for a shot to the head, naturally).   This same courtyard was also used in the film Vicky Christina Barcelona, but I haven’t seen it, so I can’t tell you much more than that. 

We stopped to check out the wall of a palace made from Jewish tombstones before looking at gargoyles and a carving of Wilfred the Hairy (and yes, his carving is very hairy) on the sides of Barcelona’s cathedral.  Then, we turned onto a narrow street named Saint Eulalia’s Descent.  After refusing to recant her Christian beliefs, the Romans tortured the 13 year old girl 13 different ways including putting her into a barrel with knives stuck into it and rolling her down that narrow street.  Anyway, in true saintly fashion, she survived all tortures until she was decapitated and a dove flew out of her neck.  Nearby is the entrance to one of the oldest synagogues in Europe and columns of a Roman temple. 

Also included on our tour was Picasso’s art school (now closed) and Placa George Orwell with its tuberculosis inspired monument.  We also stopped in Placa Reial with its lamp post designed by Guadi who is the main reason I wanted to go to Barcelona to begin with.  It all started with a 10^th grade Spanish project. 

Once the tour ended, I headed out to explore some more on my own.  I passed under the Arc de Triomf (built in 1888) and walked down towards the Parc de la Ciutadela.  I passed by some interesting buildings and sculptures, but I was mainly interested in the fountain.  When the Cascada was first opened in 1881, it did not have much going on in the fancy sculpture department.  Thank goodness they amended that.  Over the next 6 years it was transformed into one of the most amazing fountains I have ever seen.   

From there, I meandered down towards Barcelona Harbor passed El Cap de Barcelona, surrealist sculpture created for the Barcelona Olympics.  I also passed a giant lobster before goint to Port Vell, which is basically a giant shopping mall built on a pier.  However, it does have nice views of the harbor. 

My last stop of the day was Barcelona Cathedral.  It is a gothic cathedral and since I was their at night, the vaulted ceiling was amazing.  It was built from the 1200’s to the 1400’s and holds the tomb of St. Eulalia.  It also has a courtyard containing geese, but you had to buy a ticket to see them, so I passed.