Saturday, September 22, 2012

Part 41: Vienna….again August 22-24, 2012



We arrived in Vienna and took the metro to the city centre to find our hotel, which was supposedly somewhere near the Opera House.  Well, it wasn’t that far from the Opera House, I think “near” was an overstatement.  My mom stayed at the hotel to rest and my dad and I went out to explore and to buy 3 day passes for the public transportation system- which is amazing, by the way.

We saw the main shopping district and toured the Church of the Capuchin Friars Imperial Crypt.  I went through the crypt my first trip to Vienna and it is still impressive.  We also wandered around Hofburg Palace and saw the Lipizar stallions’ stables.  We then met up with my mom at the hotel to go to Schonbrunn Palace. 

I was excited about going to Schonbrunn since I didn’t go there during my first trip to Vienna.  I’m glad I didn’t go then because Schonbrunn has amazing gardens and gardens are decidedly less exciting in the winter.  Schonbrunn was the summer palace for the Hapsburgs and was built in 1695 and 1713.  It is yellow (which I found out later was an official royal color in Austria) and the interior is, as with most palaces, amazing.  You can’t take pictures inside, but my favorite room was the grand gallery.  It is 130 ft long with an arched roof painted with amazing murals.  I also liked the Blue Chinese Salon, because as anyone who has seen my wardrobe can attest, I like blue. 

We wandered around the gardens and then my dad and I walked up to the Gloriette.  This is a large pavilion used originally as a dining hall.  It overlooks the gardens and the palace and now holds a café.  We came back down and, since it was really hot out, went to the restaurant to try and eat dinner.  It was about 5:30 when we did this, but unfortunately they don’t serve dinner until 6:30, so we sat there.  It was hot.  Our dinner finally did come and it was delicious.  I had the vegetarian option, since boiled beef didn’t sound appealing and I don’t really eat beef.  I started with really good tomato soup (even though it was hot) and then I got some sort of spinach, potato, onion thingy wrapped in phyllo dough with a really good salad on the side.  Strudel (of course) was served for dessert, but I don’t actually care for strudel (or pie type pastries in general) so I just ate the crust. 

From there we went to the Orangery.  Orangeries are so named because they were like giant green houses used to hold orange trees and other tropical plants from palace gardens during the winter.  Now, the Orangery at Schonbrunn hosts concerts.  We looked terrible, since we had been sweating all day, but the concert hall was fairly cool and the concert was good.  The concert featured a small orchestra that played compositions by Austrians (Blue Danube Waltz, anyone?) and had dancers and opera singers. 

The next day started out with breakfast at McDonalds (because it was just down the street from the hotel and it was cheap) where my dad asked me if the breakfast McChicken was good “for breakfast.”  I’ve eaten so much weird stuff for breakfast lately, that as long as I’m full, I don’t care.  We then went to tour the opera house.  I toured the opera the last time I was in Vienna, but this time I took some notes (not kidding). 

The Opera house was partially destroyed by Allied bombing during WWII, but has since been rebuilt.  The original parts of the Opera house are amazing.  The Emperor’s room and even the front entry have incredible ceilings and gold trimmings.  The rest is still really nice, but you can tell it was built in the 1950’s.  Now, the stage.  The flies are 82 feet high, the stage has lifts that can rise and drop nearly 40 feet below the stage (one lift is for trucks) and the entire stage is about 250 feet deep.  It’s really big.  That’s what I took notes on.  We also went to the opera museum to see the costumes.  I also got to see my dad try out the ballet position tutorial taped to the floor.  (see picture)

From there my dad and I went to see if we could get boat tickets to Bratislava for the next day.  We also stopped at a post office to see about stamps, but they only sell stamps in packages of 4 (only country I’ve ever been to that won’t sell one stamp), so I just got one stamp from the hotel desk.  Unfortunately, the boat was sold out, so we would be taking the train. 

We met my mom and went to the meeting place for our Segway Tour.  Since my mom has trouble walking, these tours are a really great way for her to see more of the city.  We met up, signed our lives away, and were trained in stopping, starting, and turning.  We then headed out. 




First stop:  Hofburg Palace.  (my first Vienna entry talks a lot about this, so go there if you want to read more).  We also saw the parliament, town hall, Beethoven’s Vienna apartment, and St. Stephen’s Cathedral.  A monument to Gutenberg was near where we stopped to get ice cream, and from there our guide took us to the Jesuit Church which has the most amazing interior.  It was built in the 1600’s and the outside is not much to look at.  However, on the inside, the vaulted ceiling is painted to look like it has a dome. 


Our guide also showed us a model of what medieval Vienna looked like (and some wall remnants) and  some concert halls and the standard monument to the Russian soldier, which are basically found in all countries liberated by Russia during the second World War.  We stopped for a good look at St. Karl’s church (built out of thankfulness for the Black Plague ending) and then made our way back to the Segway tour place by way of “The 3rd Man” underground tour start site.  You can literally tour the tunnels where the movie was filmed. 

My parents and I decided to go see the inside of St. Stephen’s and then we went to Figlmuller, a restaurant famous for its giant Schnitzle.  It also makes the best potato-spinach salad ever.  It was soooo good. 


The next morning, we went to tour Hapsburg Palace.  When touring the palace, you get to see the Royal silver and china collection, which fills up rooms and rooms.  It is one of the most ostentatious things I’ve ever seen (and now I’ve seen in twice).  You then enter the Sissy Museum, which gives you a look into the life of Empress Elizabeth.  She has the standard “I hate being royal” tale and really became much more popular after her assassination than she ever was while alive.  Lastly, you see the private rooms of the emperor and empress in the palace.  They are mostly decorated in red and I probably couldn’t even afford the fabric that the furniture is upholstered in. 
From the Hofburg, we caught the tram to the south train station to catch a train to Bratislava, Slovakia for the rest of the day.

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