Sunday, September 23, 2012

Part 43: The Hills Are Alive August 25, 2012

The morning of August 25 started like all our other mornings in Vienna with breakfast from McDonalds.  However, this time, I was ready to go early and so I was sent on a pick-up mission.  Little did my American self know that McDonalds in Vienna (and probably all of Europe) on the weekends doesn’t open until 7 am.  What?  Luckily, I was only 10 minutes early and got to spend some quality time with my Kindle and the drunk people waiting for their breakfast before (and I’m just assuming here) going home and sleeping until 4 pm. 


With breakfast finished, we headed off to the train station (Westbanhoff, this time) to catch our train to Salzburg.  On the train, I continued reading “Little Women.”  I’d never read the book before, though I really like the movie (the 1949 film, not the later versions) and it was free for Kindle, so I decided, “Why not?”  I really liked the book; however, it took me FOREVER to finish it.  I reached the part where Beth March died while on the train and I found it to be really sad.  Most of the time I don’t become overly saddened by death in books.  When Dumbledore died in Harry Potter, I was surprised, but I wasn’t sad about it.  I liked the way the author described it.  Plus, it was sort of a long, drawn out process, which always helps (has anyone else seen the ending of “My Dog Skip?”  How about “Where the “Red Fern Grows?”). 

We got to Salzburg and found our hotel and my dad and I went to explore the city.  We saw Mirabell Gardens, which are the gardens of Mirabell Palace, the home of Archbishop Wolf Dietrich Raitenau.  He built it in 1606 for his wife and large number of children.  From there, we crossed the Salzach River into the old part of town.  We saw Mozart’s birth place, the Cathedral, and Residence Square.  Residence Square includes the Residence Fountain (the largest baroque fountain outside of Italy), and two archbishop palaces.  There is also a nearby Mozart monument. 

We crossed Chapter Square and saw the Neptune fountain, and then we angled our way up the hill.  We stopped for lunch and I got a “chicken burger” with garlic mayonnaise which is basically the best condiment ever invented.  We walked up the hill towards the fortress a little ways before heading back down and eventually finding ourselves in St. Peter’s cemetery, which is where the Von Traps hid from the Nazis in The Sound of Music.  I plan on doing an entire Sound of Music post later on, so I’ll just save the details. 

 
We emerged from the cemetery near a bakery that smelled delicious and then bought the first of many pretzels from an amazing pretzel stand.  We crossed through the twisty streets and came out right in the middle of the Grunmarkt.  It was packed with people and stalls selling everything from meat and vegetables to crafts.  Also there is the Collegiate Church, which was built in 1696 and has an impressive façade, though the inside is undergoing some sort of restoration.  We needed to head back to the hotel to pick up my mom.  On the way, we passed by the Pferdeschwemme Horse-Pond, which served a watering place for the Archbishop’s horses in 1695.  It’s nicer than any glass I’ve ever used. 

After collecting my mom, we again passed through Mirabell Gardens and crossed the river into the old town.  We were on a mission to visit several churches that I’d picked out in the guide book.  First stop:  Salzburg Cathedral.  Completed in 1628 (and reconstructed after an Allied bomb collapsed the dome), it is amazing!  It has a barrel-vaulted ceiling painted with beautiful murals and the carved moldings are fantastic.  There is also a baptismal font that was forged in 1321 that depicts several bishops as well as scenes from the Bible.  I had to wait over 5 minutes to get a picture of it because this tour guide would not move.  I swear she was reciting the names of every baby ever baptized by its waters. 

We moved on to St. Peter’s church.  The church was built in stages staring in 1250.  It also has a barrel-vaulted ceiling but it is decorated completely differently from the Cathedral.  It has vine-like moldings and only a few large murals. 

On a whim, we popped into the Fransciscan Church.  It was built in two different time periods.  The nave is from 1167 and the choir was built in 1400’s.  So, we have a Romanesque nave, a gothic choir, and a baroque altar.  It is also interesting because the church has many support columns holding up the ceiling rather than it being free-standing. 

After that, we went back to the hotel for dinner and watched The Big Bang Theory on my dad’s I-pad.

And so ended Day 1 in Salzburg.